TFN Talks with Nic Vanderbeeken
TFN Talks sat down with Nic Vanderbeeken, the Executive Chef at Apéritif, Bali’s premier fine dining establishment, to talk about his extraordinary life and the culinary prowess that has earned him international recognition.
Nic where did you grow up and what sparked your passion for the culinary arts?
I grew up in a small village called Lauwe in Belgium. From an early age all I can remember is expressing an interest in what my mother was cooking and baking at home. By the age of 14 I wanted to be more independent. I liked school but I preferred to be in the kitchen, so I started as a kitchen porter in ‘Marke’, a restaurant in a small village in West Flanders. I loved the vibe, the atmosphere, I was the only kitchen porter so was working hard and long hours.
The energy in the kitchen was what I loved most, I saw everything from the prep going in “coup de feu” middle of service and then after service back to relaxing and having a beer, the satisfaction that gave the chefs was remarkable. I wanted to be one of them.
One year later I received an offer to be a “Daily Worker” which involved cutting vegetables, making mayonnaise, crème brulee, gratin fruit and so on. From then, I was part of the culinary team. The Head Chef convinced my parents to send me to culinary school in 1996. The rest, as they say, is history!
In your early twenties you started working at ‘t Convent, a Michelin star restaurant in a Belgium. Can you tell us about this experience and how it helped launch your career as a chef?
It was difficult. I had worked in two culinary restaurants before I started in ‘t Convent, which were high end but without a Michelin star. The difference with a Michelin star for me is that the team is bigger, which allowed them to be more focused and better organized. The produce we used was also only the best available and no mistakes were tolerated, the chef was always right (even when he was wrong)!
The Chef, Rudy Devolder, inspired me greatly. Every Thursday he visited the night market to pick up seasonal fresh produce for that week which mostly consisted of vegetables. We gave him the list on Wednesday and it was our responsibility to make sure everything was ordered for the following week. He mostly brought new produce with him for us to try new dishes with.
In my first two weeks, I was cleaning chicken wings and butchering chicken. I thought to myself “this is not why I left the previous restaurant.” I spoke to the chef and explained my predicament. I subsequently moved to the fish section and from then, everything changed. From there, I got the spark to go ‘full on’. The team was amazing and we maintain contact after 15 years. Sadly the Sous Chef at the time was involved in a serious accident and was out for two months. I was next in line and had no choice but to step up. Although challenging, I made it through the two months.
When the Sous Chef returned, he was offered a ‘Chef Tournant’ position so I could keep my position of Sous Chef. It was the most amazing time to work with so many premium ingredients; truffles, caviar, the best seafood, our own farmed chickens and vegetable and herb gardens. The Head Chef even had his own truffle farm and a vineyard... it was the dream to work at this restaurant. They also had a small number of rooms which have recently been renovated so I look forward to returning once I am back in Belgium.
How did you end up in Bali and taking up the post as Executive Chef at Apéritif?
I was working for Viceroy Bali as Executive Chef in charge of the culinary offering at the resort. I wanted to go back into the restaurant business and push the dining experience boundaries in Bali. I explained my vision to the GM of Viceroy Bali and from there we worked on a concept. After many considerations, we considered the best option was to open a fine dining restaurant within the grounds of Viceroy Bali. From then, Apéritif was born. I was involved in the design of the kitchen and developing the menus, hiring the staff and much more.
Can you tell us a little bit about the history and the concept behind Apéritif?
Apéritif is a unique dining experience. We aim to redefine the entire experience of luxury fine dining, as we think about each guest’s enjoyment. From the space and décor, to the atmosphere and quality of produce—whether local or imported—used, we definitely value each and every little detail. At Apéritif, quality comes first.
From the moment the guests step through the door, you are transported to another world and era. Guests can truly experience the ambiance of a luxurious colonial era that harks back to the Roaring Twenties. On one side, there is the gorgeous 1920s-inspired bar, where you are able to enjoy a pre - dinner drink or aperitif with snacks, prior to stepping into the grand dining room for a lovely degustation meal. Coupled with the view of the Valley of the Kings and the rice paddy fields, it is an unparalleled experience that transports you back in time. The bar also beckons you to come back for an after-dinner digestif, which adds another touch point for the entire experience.
The food we offer is eclectic and takes inspiration from many different places in the world, which means that diners can connect even deeper to the food we offer, as there are little hints of flavors that are familiar to many diners. Apéritif should not just be a special occasion destination, but one where you can create memories with friends and family over amazing food, cocktails and wines. We would like to bring back this forgotten era of fine dining, which is one that will surely be unforgettable.
Our entire culinary journey is reflective of our philosophy—one that is unique and crosses many cultures and culinary borders. We are very open-minded with where our inspiration comes from, and we’d like to take you on a journey around the world with a well-balanced, yet eclectic menu.
Many dishes have hints of Indonesia—which is also about us respecting where we are and where we live—but it is still international modern European cuisine. We are bringing back memories of the various things we have tasted from our travels and life experiences, including that from Indonesia, Southeast Asia, Europe and America. It is not really about where we are, but who we are as a team. This is what I believe makes Apéritif truly unique.
Venison Wellington
Tuna Tataki
Apéritif is Bali’s premier fine dining establishment. Do you often feel the pressure that comes along with that level of recognition and expectation?
I think recognition of what we are doing is always a great motivation for myself and the team. When I receive positive feedback I share this with the team. Expectations are always high, which is why we take all feedback seriously. Not only the food, but the reputation of the restaurant is important as we aim to deliver the best experience to our guests daily.
We also analyze the feedback we receive. With our years of experience we need to ensure every guest has the same experience at Apéritif. The produce is very important because the biggest difference in value with us is the imported premium produce we use, such as Wagyu A5, live Canadian Lobsters, New Zealand Venison, Iberico bellota pork and so on. It is sometimes our task to educate the guest on why this produce is so much more expensive and why we use it. However usually after tasting, we do not need to explain much more!
That’s why we try to inform our guests as much as possible prior their arrival, about what they can expect by dining at Apéritif. I would be lying if I said that I didn’t think about work for one day. My life is actually built around my job – I find I have more pressure in my personal life!
What are the upsides and challenges of being a fine dining Chef in Bali?
The access to produce is at the top of the list as a challenge. We have incredible produce of vegetables in Bali but there is a lot more that is difficult to get. For example, seasons for white asparagus, game meat or truffles is always difficult to source high quality. The cost of such produce is incredibly high and it is our duty to deliver high quality to our guests.
There was even a time at the beginning of 2020 that onions were priced at IDR 180,000/ kg, that was challenging! It actually worked out cheaper to fly to Medan, buy onions there at the market and fly them back to Bali. Also, the import tax on premium produce just doesn’t make sense, and the rules to import produce in general. Paying 4x the price for the same product on top of having to prepare it and sell it, makes it difficult to explain to our food lovers.
A great upside is that one is pushed to use more local produce. But in Apéritif we like to let the local market taste what the world has to offer...
Apéritif Bali
Apéritif Bar
I visited Apéritif recently to try your 8 course degustation menu and was was met above and beyond my expectations. Can you walk us through the process of how you come about designing the menu and what factors are at play when you set out to create an exquisite culinary experience?
I remember your visit! It’s always a bit challenging if we have a vegetarian/vegan visiting us for the first time. They are not sure what to expect. As mentioned previously, we aim to offer every guest the same experience.
We create a choice menu, people prefer always to choose, so we created a set menu with 6 or 8 course, a vegetarian and a vegan menu. The menu does not change monthly or yearly but there can be changes daily. It depends on the produce available that day.
We make sure that everything is fresh, that’s our No. 1 rule. And every guest is treated the same. The menu is built up that we start light and end with heavier dishes. Textures in the dishes are important too, I do not want you to have food without substance, you need texture. Flavor is No. 2 rule. I love to work with spices. For me that is a big difference from when I was in Belgium. Every dish needs to hit your tastebuds, not just on a spice level but as a pleasant kick.
What would you recommend to first time guests at Apéritif?
Come with an open mind. We are a fine dining restaurant where you can come as you are to enjoy an incredible dining experience without us being too stiff, but very different from the casual eateries we have all around Bali. With us, you still can come to experience that real fine dining night out, and sipping on cocktails at the bar also brings you back to another time.
What are your favorite dish and dessert on the Apéritif menu and the perfect suggested wine pairing?
Without a doubt my favorite dish is our signature venison wellington foie gras with rendang sauce. It also happens to be the favorite pick of 90% of our guests. I promise our guests to never talk of it anymore – which is a big promise! This paired with a glass of the Chocolate Block wine suggested by our wonderful sommelier Yudi is a perfect blend.
Desserts, is a tricky one, personally I am not a big fan of desserts, but the milk and honey, created by our Pastry Chef, went through a few transformations, and it feels so comfortable to eat as a final course.
Cake Batter Memories
PB & J
I have noticed that Aperitif often hosts guest chefs from other dining establishments on the island for special degustation menu nights. You also host guest mixologists for ladies night every Wednesday. How did this come about? Do you enjoy the collaboration process and what has been your favorite and most memorable collaboration this year?
Ladies night is something we wanted to host a long time but never found the right time for it as we were more focused on the restaurant. Now with the pandemic we could focus more on the bar. Headed by Panji, our Head Mixologist, the bar experienced a transition of a restaurant bar to more of an independent bar where you can come to have a late night or play some pool. Sometimes we also have a DJ who plays late into the night.
The collaborations have always been a thing for me. I always wanted to share the kitchen with friends or friends of friends... it creates a great atmosphere in the kitchen and you also get inspired by doing those collaborations. The most memorable will be without any doubt the first Latin dinner in September 2020. The dinner was sold out in the blink of an eye and the after party went on quite late!
I have not done any collaboration that I didn’t like. They were all unique. Some more fun, some more serious. From our Truffle event, to Indonesian, to Japan, to classic fine dining,... each one of them ended as a memorable dinner, followed by a party (in a Covid safe space).
Double Snake
Tamarillo Negroni
How do you like spending your time outside of work? I hear you love scuba diving? When did you start diving?
I started scuba diving in 2000, when I received my certificate in the Dominican Republic. I dove a lot at that time, then paused for a few years and started again in 2019. Now with Covid, I started again with weekly dives. Mostly in Tulamben and Amed. The other close-by locations I have explored are Lembongan, Nusa Penida and Candi Dasa. I am so glad I rediscovered this wonderful hobby.
Otherwise on my days off, I visit friends’ restaurants. With diving however, I have learnt to ‘switch off’ and relax underwater with no phone, not many people around - me time... I recently had my first kickboxing class which was much more intense than diving so that’s something I will try to keep up with also.
What is next for Chef Vanderbeeken? Can you tell us about any special plans you may have for Apéritif and for yourself in the new year?
The plans for Apéritif in 2021 will be to recover from 2020, hopefully going back to some form of “normal” business and take the lessons we learned in 2020 with us, being more focused on the local market. And further we will see, I am not sure it’s good to make special plans for 2021. Who knows how long this will still last.
Let’s hope first we go bit back to normal and then we talk again. Personally I really want to see my son again soon and go traveling a bit. I could use some – it might sound funny – “holiday”!
‘TFN Talks’ In Partnership with Tropical Nomad Coworking Space