Venerably called the Island of Gods in popular media, Bali has been on the forefront of many travellers minds and bucket lists these past few years. Widely circulated images of perfectly manicured rice fields, paradise beaches and stunning traditional temples shared on social media immediately come to mind. Is Bali truly the tourist paradise and premier digital nomad, health and investment hub that many advertise it to be? Is there a dark side to one of the world’s top tourist destinations? Should you visit Bali, and what is it really like living and being (legally) employed on the island as an expat?

These days Lovina is empty of tourists, much like the rest of Bali. Solitary fishermen and dolphin guides roam the streets adjacent to the beach vying for a client among merely a handful of visitors who come down to the shore to catch a glimpse of nature at play. At Lovina Beach, a tall statue of a dolphin made of stone towers above the neighborhood reminding everyone of why they’re here.