Dolphins in Lovina

To the North of Bali lies the tourist district of Lovina. It is renowned for it’s volcanic black sand beaches and coral reefs. But perhaps the biggest draw to the area is the rare opportunity to see wild dolphins, who congregate a mile out from Lovina beach moments after sunrise, swimming in packs in their natural habitat. 

These days Lovina is empty of tourists, much like the rest of Bali. Solitary fishermen and dolphin guides roam the streets adjacent to the beach vying for a client among merely a handful of visitors who come down to the shore to catch a glimpse of nature at play. At Lovina Beach, a tall statue of a dolphin made of stone towers above the neighborhood reminding everyone of why they’re here. 

I woke up at the crack of dawn and met the landlord and his son, who took us to their family boat on the shore. The first rays of the sun were just starting to peak from beyond the horizon. We sailed out without expectation. I silently wondered how the Balinese man and his son were going to find the dolphins. It wasn’t like you could just send a whatsapp message and request for them to be around at 6am sharp. The thought of it made me smile. I was already happy, just to be here, just like this. But then the man shouted and pointed to his right ... up against the backdrop of the sun, there they were, cruising in and out of the waves, a family of dolphins. There must have been about a dozen of them in the water before they were joined by several more packs. I couldn’t believe my eyes ...